Rock Climbing Locally
Ddinas Rock Area - GR 912079 (near Pontneddfechan)
There is rock climbing throughout the Gorge. The best area for groups and beginners is the main cliff adjacent to the car park. There are also a number of caves of various lengths, an extensive silica mine, and areas of river suitable for gorge walks and interesting walks through the woods on rough pathways. The main rock is very popular with organised groups. Further up the Gorge in the cave area are some of the hardest free & bolted climbs in South Wales.
Morlais Quarry – GR 047099 (near Merthyr Tydfil)
A popular 20 metre limestone quarry suitable for all abilities with some poorly protected polished climbs. Belays are mainly stakes. Bouldering is limited. It is advisable to seek permission to park vehicles at the farm which is on the opposite side of the road - go along track and turn left to the stables. Ask before leaving vehicle. Vehicles left nearer the quarry have been broken into.
Twynau Gwynion GR 065105 (near Merthyr Tydfil)
A gem of a crag. It needs imagination to exploit its full potential. Good quality limestone generally up to 15 metres high. Great bouldering.
Penallta GR 138948 (near Ystrad Mynach)
One of the best of the sandstone crags but a little difficult for novices.
The Gap GR 080963 (near Quakers Yard)
Heavily bolted - not really for beginners
Trebanog GR 013903
Nice roadside crag. Sandstone
Llangattock Hillside – GR 186158 (near Crickhowell)
Quarry climbing for all abilities & good for groups. Groups of more than 5 need to use a booking service and may need to pay a small fee. Booking is done through Crickhowell Adventure Gear (01873 810149) or call in person at 1 High Street, Crickhowell. Bookings can be taken up to 8 weeks in advance.
Much quality climbing to be had alongside some indifferent ground. 3 Cliffs is good for beginners, but beware of the tides. Also consider Mewslade, Little Tor and Boiler Slab.
Probably the best sea cliffs in Britain. Little easy terrain. Good areas include Tenby,
Lidster point, St Govan’s Head, MOD range.
Climbing routes for all areas can be found in the South Wales Mountaineering Club guide book.